Month: June 2014

Illegal Bathing Suits and Shaky Cable Cars

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

The French have lots of nude beaches and topless sunbathing on beaches is readily acceptable.  But too much clothing?  Who knew that was actually be illegal!

We exited from the South of France a few days ahead of schedule, as if we have a schedule, before our rental had ended.  The winds changed and we felt the urge to proceed onward.  But to where?  Good question, one that we keep asking daily for we are now truly into the living wherever we are portion, some hankerings and ideas but no reservations and no firm plans.

We decided to head north through France and then over the Alps.  One the way we decided to stop at Aix Les Bain in the Rhône-Alpes region in southeastern France.  It was used even in the Roman Empire for the healing powers of its baths.  Well, from our experiences some of the energy from that time period still remains.  We only stopped for one night after originally reserving 2.  We experienced several odd issues with the hotel in which we were to stay.  We have traveled quite a bit in France on this trip as well as prior and of course many, many times Rick has vacationed there.  The bathing suit issue was a new one.

We waited for an hour into the early twilight hours for a seniors water aerobics class to end so we could get our 3 year old the pool time we promised her earlier in the day and did not want to renege on.  Rick entered the pool as a few elderly ladies glared, looked shocked, and thus reported his pool garb as apparently disgracefully inappropriate.  What was he wearing?  A speedo?  No, the opposite.  He was wearing a normal shorts type bathing suite, liner and all.  The guardian of the pool pulled Rick aside to inform him of his inappropriate behavior.  There is a law on the books that men are not permitted to wear suits that could possibly be worn outside of the pool.  Apparently, from what I have researched this is due to an attempt to keep outside debris from entering the pool.  But really, a man could be wearing a skin tight sweat collecting suit all day under his shorts but as long as the tush of the outside of the suit is not seeing daylight then all is well!

After that fiasco and more at a hotel that resembled the shining.  We drove to Chamonix-Mont Blanc, France.  Home of France’s highest point in the Alps as well as its largest, but much receded, glacier (thank you global warming).  Nevertheless, the experience was spectacular.  Our amazing, breathtaking pictures do not do it justice.  Our original stop turned into 6 days, 5 nights.  On our first full day we took a train up to the massive Glacier.  Once on top Ilaria was thrilled to be taking a cable car/gondola down to the Glacier itself.  In theory it was a beautiful ideal.  When a person is single there is a different perspective on life, death, and immortality but, as a parent those thoughts linger on that of your offspring.

Once on the car we proceeded to descend literally straight down, only to discover mid-trip that there is a pause in the route in which you remain suspended for minutes motionless as the others board and disembark from the stations.  For those who have had the pleasure of riding such carts, you know that in the petite carts the smallest shift causes the cart to sway.  Even an excited 40 pounds looking out can transfer the weight.  Parents wondering thoughts are one thing, but when a little voice bellows questions about when the cart falls how they can hold on as it goes head over feet crashing into the cliff and trees below somehow it does not cause the guardians to chuckle in the least.  Obviously we endured.

It is amazing what mountain air can do to the energy of a 42 inch tall being.  Exhilarated on other hikes high in the heightened elevations she pressed forward, no, she ran up and down the mountains.  Nature in its purest forms!

Hot and Cold: Hypothermia in 90F weather

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

The tourist brochure cautions not to go into the water in the Gulf of St. Tropez up to the neck due to the chance of hyperthermia.  Shockingly the water was bone chilling but more shocking was the heat wave that overtook the South of France with record temperatures for June in the 90’s.

In choosing our June local we took into account two factors.  #1 was that the weather would be somewhat moderate, low 80’s, and #2 it would be quieter because the French do not begin summer holiday until Bastille Day, the beginning of July.  Wrong and wrong.  We hit a major heat wave which took temperatures for a week into the 90’s hiding us from the midday sun but, no way to escape the stifling heat and lack of wind.  The water was not a shelter either, hitting the beach at 4:00 was baking but the water was akin to the polar bear plunge each time without the jet stream of the waters catching up to the early summer that arrived.

"Cooling" off
“Cooling” off

Together, my little adventurer and I discovered a somewhat hidden oasis at a national park with greenery and cliffs that led down to tidal pools that had warmed up nicely due to the stifling lack of breeze.  There we could explore marine life and unite ourselves with nature in the purest form. Our little earth keeper was not satisfied by the plethora of cigarette butts that lined the picnic area and being that she is not allowed to touch them had me pluck each one from Pacha Mama (mother earth) as she sang a song apologizing for the atrocity that people had created in what she considered her very sacred place.

Butt out!
Our private oasis

Our family together spent time in ways such as that to strike a dichotomy from the beachy, shore vibe.  We took a day trip to Port Gimaud to rent a boat and weave our way thought the lovely canals, like Venice without the massive crowds.  Our  adventure was to the town of Gimaud to visit the ancient walls and fortress with a sweeping view high above the Gulf and surrounding areas.  It is no surprise that there is a Rue de Templars, a small street dedicated to the lore of the Templars who were once inhabitants.  At each of our visits thus far since arriving in Europe Ila is transfixed by churches and cathedrals, the energy and the beauty of these old gems leads us to plead with her to exit at the appropriate time.

Navigating the canals
The Fortress in Grimaud
Lovely canals
Church in Grimaud
Grimaud

The intention of our explorations was to connect ourselves and our family in a distinct manner with divine intentions.   Seeing life through the eyes of a child, unfiltered and pure allow for capabilities beyond the higher insights of a spiritual teach or guru, a true connection to spirit through nature and energy.   There is a woman who spreads love through the world by going around hugging.  We have our own angel who by walking through the town with her sparkle crown has brought smiles to more faces than one can imagine, storekeepers, tourists, as well as on duty police.   Happiness runs in a circular motion!

Her Majesty
Her Majesty

Viva la France???

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

The French love France, the French language, and all things French. This is a blessing and a curse. Sainte Maxime is a tourist destination mostly for the French, German, Netherlands, Belgium, English, and Swiss but, the French do not care, for the most part it is all-French, all the time. Experiential yes, submerging yes, and a bit puzzling. The times that Rick and I have traveled here before to Ste. Maxime, in the south of France across from St. Tropez, as well as other towns on the Mediterranean, we were new loves eager for two long weeks away. Alone together as a nice reprieve, being in own world somewhat, surrounded by the lovely French language. Sweetly we strolled to romantic meals eating at restaurants and our hotel for petite dejeuner. The last time was 2006, globalization and the world has changed in on many levels in 8 years. But in France, the nationalism that was created during the French Revolution remains strong, maybe to a fault. On a small and personal level it is interesting to experience but a worldly outsider may be quick to observe how in this modern world, where we are ALL so interdependent, France may need to modernize their thoughts for the sake of keeping their nation strong.

All French Products marked as En France
Dora La French explorer

Menus – ALL in French Labels – ALL in French Dora the Explorer Book (created to teach Americans kids Spanish) – ALL in French TV – ALL in French or dubbed in French, yes even crappy American TV Our intention with our experiences this time around is to really live each culture to the extent that we can, eyes wide open, not as a tourist. This town is notorious for their markets with various small vendors. Almost each morning we go to the covered market for fresh everything to eat and on Thursdays there is a huge open-air market for all foods Provence,, just as the French do. In the A.M. prepared, market bags and euros in hand while preparing to convert the metric system (come on US convert already) and arranging words carefully for the numerous transactions.

Bountiful outdoor market
Fresh baguette
Outdoor weekly market

The days of French in high school and one semester of college are now long in the rearview and our travels since 2007 led us to Mexico, Peru, Chile, and Costa Rica – sans French. We did go to Belgium a few years ago but due to the battle between the French and Flemish sides there are lots of English as a middle ground. Here there is little middle ground. Loving the French language, the French are proud of it and expect that you talk to them in French. Necessity has driven the French out of me. Very proud of my first interaction, all in French and voilà, fresh yogurt and eggs to prepare for breakfast. A note to the inexperienced French traveler, it is key to first come to them with French words, whatever you have, if you make a sad attempt, but an attempt nonetheless, then will try to work with you and maybe petite English or just mime!

Day trip to St. Tropez
Boat to St. Tropez
Early morning private beach!
Grand amour (pic by Ila)

It has been a bit of a culture shock going from the Swedes who are taught from a very young age to speak English. Personally, after a week I have had some complete conversations in French. Of course that is mainly the French person conversing with me in detail, as they love to do, I rapid fire translate and comprehend while returning short, concise sentences that can be recognized reasonably straightforward. One habit I have to be conscious of, being out of practice, is my reply of Si instead of Oui for yes, which everyone is more than happy to correct me. But I jest, the days of Americans perceiving the French as rude, and vice versa, are long gone. They are and have been very, very friendly to us and kind in many ways.

Our lovely apt
Our apt living room
Pieuvre

The other factor, we have no Internet in the apartment – cold turkey. The conscious decision has been made not to get data on our cell phones in order to keep us on the ground and in the present. Did you ever leave your phone home or have the battery die? Yeah, like that, except all the time. Slowly I have stopped twitching. What about when I need to know the French word for octopus to tell the balloon man for our daughter? Anyway the beautiful Mediterranean temperature and sun keep us out-of-doors until bedtime.None of these factors matter much during the day but, when it is bedtime for the babe we are in apartment with what I now see as a the gift of time to read and write, no internet distractions, and each other. Just two, somewhat older, loves enjoying a reprieve in our own little world.

Rick puts his foot down

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, Uncategorized, World Travel

We neatly and tightly packed our rental car in Malmo. It is best for our travels to choose the most compact car that also meet our cargo needs, the French squeeze cars into tinier parking spots that one can imagine (maybe that is why the ordered trains that did not fit, they just assumed that they could squeeze them into the station) so we must be prepared.   When motoring in Europe it is key to have all of your baggage tucked away neatly as to not tempt someone to try and take a peak inside looking for valuables. The baggage cover for the back of the wagon must close cleanly so it initial made for several attempts to jigsaw puzzle the pieces just so.

Luggage jenga
Luggage jenga

As we set out we seemed to have thought of everything:

  • Snacks
  • Luggage
  • Water
  • GPS
  • Toys and Games
  • Maps of Denmark, Germany, and France

The best laid plans… We thought of almost everything that is. As much as we know the layout of the downtown of Malmo, the surrounding areas we have never had the need to master. Told by all, just follow the signs to the Oresund Bridge to Denmark alas there are no such signs. We asked people, several people, and it became comical much like a practical joke bit. One person points us one direction and tells us to proceed forward and look for signs – no signs.   Next, ask another and turn the completely opposite direction, search for signs once again, all for naught. Three passes, several people, and many minutes later we found the bridge hoping that was not an omen for our departure and impending travel onward!

Prior to leaving Sweden one of the students at the seminar said, “Oh, so you have all the places mapped out where you are stopping as you drive down to the Mediterranean?” The answer – a big NO! We had some knowledge and ideas of what could be interesting to see but left it to our moods and our rumps to make a decision where to stop and where to rest. All we knew upon starting was our end point a substancial distance away from Scandinavia – the South of France in Sainte Maxime directly across the bay from St. Tropez. Next question, “Why drive?” We knew that we have to start and end in Sweden, the place where we received our extended visa to allow us in Europe for over three months. Another factor is that we did not want to be burdened buy planning our flights in advance, freestyle for us.

Our first leg was across Demark. Most people, myself included are unaware that Demark consists of 407 islands and a mainland connected to Germany, integrated with a connection of crisscrossing of bridges and ferries. We opted for a route of highway and bridges across and then down into Germany.  On our first day we stopped when we got tired of driving and pulled off the road to a quaint, lovely town at a Park like hotel in Bad Falingsbostel, Germany. Day 2, our power day, we plowed to Trier, Germany. Trier has many ancient Roman ruins; another fact some do not realize is that German and France have amazing and well-preserved ancient Roman ruins (with fewer crowds then Rome). Day 3 we enjoyed lots of Roman Ruins before taking an almost lovely drive down through the Mosel Valley stopping leisurely in Luxingborg to enjoy a glass of notorious local white wine.  Now, when saying almost there were few factors, a picturesque town outside of Trier that we stopped for lunch and then 45 minutes we spent hunting up and down for a gas station, backtracking to get it and then proceeding forward. The Mosel wine on the river in Luxemburg was blissfully until a bit down the way afterwards, the road stopped, no warning, backtracking us once again – Buzz kill.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

We ended that night in Nancy, France, much larger then we anticipated but with a massive square lots of gold gild or as our daughter called it, of course, fancy Nancy. Day 4 continuing forth we stopped in Macon, France on our way to Orange, France. Orange is a picturesque village, again with ancient Roman ruins but much more intimate of a place. The Roman amphitheater is breathtaking and awe inspiring examining the architecture and longevity of the master masons’ work. Day 5 our final stop Arles, France massive, overrun with tourists. Our highlight was eating in Van Gogh’s café and visiting the hospital where he was detained after cutting his ear off. Our dining companion happened to be wearing her sunflower headband and happily waved at all of the Asian tourists taking pictures of her at the café.

The Route
The Route

If all of the road time seems a bit overwhelming please not that one significant difference when motoring in Europe is their rest stops. Being from New Jersey I equate a rest stop with dirty fast food and grungy toilets. Sorry Jersey, but we all know that is true. In Europe it is dissimilar. Some if not all have nice cafes, real food, and sit down restaurants with servers, oh and some expensive cars and well dressed people. The Europeans travel a bit different from us Americans. Personally I have memories of powering though drives up and down the coast to get to a destination. They stop, have a coffee and pastry, relax, and chitchat slightly removed from a rumbling highway. No dodging in and out of the bathroom and grabbing something nearly edible to eat in the car. It fascinates me, quite a different pace. Also much to a child’s delight almost all have a kids area or playground of some sort. On our power day of driving Adults delirious and kid enthralled that she got to go to so many playgrounds in one day. As Ilaria and the Europeans can tell you it is all about perspective.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

After 5 days – Nous Arrivons – We Arrive. We are resting comfortably in the South of France at our apartment rental intended for three weeks, the only set plans we have left on our excursion. Suggestions welcomed in the comments section of the blog.