Ask for what you want or you deserve what you get! Ask Paul McCartney

Upon returning to New Jersey, quite last minute, we discovered that there was a Climate March taking place in NYC.  We decided that we had to go.  Unfortunately, our daughter had already anticipated the ballet birthday of her friend scheduled the same day so she and I were predisposed.  Rick headed to the city to represent our family and “March for Our Daughters Future”.  It was massive and much larger then the police and even the organizers anticipated.  Most importantly it brought together many organizations to support the same initiative and make their presence known. The head of the UN, politician, scientists, celebrities, fractions even including religious groups and workers unions, New Yorkers interviewed mentioned that they felt the impact of what happened with super storm Sandy and wanted to make themselves heard.

My own research about the march was pivotal for my own understanding of climate change avoiders (besides politicians financially supported by oil companies and other climate invaders).  People who will not address it because it is to frightening or they cannot move past their own personal problems to address it. All information points to the fact that beyond individuals, companies need to convert their thinking for a greater, faster transition.  The good news is some corporations are becoming more conscious, such as Rockefeller’s shifting away from investing in fossil fuels. Heirs to an oil fortune join the divestment drive 

Knowing my passion for the environment and organics people tell me frequently that they feel that their powerless.  Not so!  One easy thing that anyone/everyone can do is eat less meat.  Americans, compared to other counties, eat way to much and the methane has crazy impacts besides the water and food for the cattle.   You can even just start with Meat Free Mondays.  It is a great reminder each week.  Your body and the earth will thank you and so will our daughter and the rest of the children we are leaving the earth to!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKGOy4PxOw8

Boulder is spelled BO…

Boulder has a quaint and lovely downtown with great independent shops, eco-friendly larger brand stores, unsurpassed farmers market, and loads of great restaurants that are on the no-GMO, local, organic bandwagon. In fact, of all our travels personally I can say that they are the best place to eat hands down. Not just on the high-end, also moderate and inexpensive great options.

I am Super Crunchy and Liberal, but if you have an able body and a sign “Homeless Hippie needs money for Weed” just forget about it. You have a great gig smoking all day but it is for sure something you could and should support all by yourself – no joke. But just a hint – shower first, really, because that pot cloud smell is surrounding you like Pig Pen. As you all must know by now, I am very open about not conforming to conventional standards but hippies were about Free Love not Free Rides.

Speaking of pot, wow, it is like Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory for the herb.  Literally, you can even get it in candy, soda, cookie, and brownie form. Shops are everywhere and you only have to be 21 and show a valid ID. Reminiscent of when freshman start college and they are left to their own devices, before the novelty of unfettered independence and unlimited alcohol access has worn off, it is all very new and people are taking advantage of the freedom. A hint for the novice man from India in the rec marijuana store.  There is no need to hold up the line asking newbie questions such as how to light a joint.  If you want a live answer go talk to the unHippies on the street or even smoke it with them. At least then they will be working for it.

But I digress; on our hunt for an eventual landing spot we loved Louisville, a very quaint town 20 minutes outside of Boulder. It had a vibrant, intimate historic Main Street with an awesome, grand new library. But…. it snowed, twice in the second week in September. TWICE. We kept hearing how Boulder gets 300 days of sunshine and we got to see 7 of the other 65, grey rainy and snowy. But we did get a break one day (although nippy) to go to the Rocky Mountain Park and it was stunning. It is a natural beauty that one should not miss and we saw it with lots of snowy peaks!

P.S.  Whoops, the blog is a bit late. Anti-marijuana crusaders claim it is harmful because it can make you lazy.

The Trouble with Shangri La (and why EVERYONE should care)

A purpose of our US tour is to visit and revisit some potential relocation places.  The first week we revisited Santa Barbara, Ventura, and our much-loved, idyllic Ojai.  Ojai was the backdrop for Frank Capra’s film Lost Horizon, the scenes of the villagers of Shangri-La.  Historically known as a place of Art, Spirituality, and Health it was the place that Krishnamurti, the famous philosopher, made home and created a retreat center and children’s school, both of which still continue and thrive.  It is a small town with 8,500ish residents and as I heard one Rasta man in town state, “Everyday here is just another day in paradise.”  We love it and would consider it a new home for our family minus one thing.

So what is the issue?  An issue that you, me, and the rest of the US should be concerned with – Fresh water.  The drought conditions are Exceptional, 2-steps worse than Severe and 1-step worse than Extreme.  In the US drought monitoring system Exceptional is the lowest category so, it may get worse but categorically it has already hit rock bottom.  Maybe some think let Hollywood dry up (maybe it already has), who cares?   There are much more important exports from the Golden State then movies and TV.  Named the land of fruits and nuts, for more than one reason, Cali produces over 50% percent of the fruit, veggies, and nuts for the US.   I am a strong proponent for local, organic food but at present the infrastructure is not in place in all areas to feed the masses by these methods and like NJ, some states have cold winters!  Americans NEED rain in Cali.

We next enjoyed our time in California as we explored the southern coast – Lugina Beach, San Clemente, and one of our favorites Ja Jolla.   In the past we have been in Costa Rica in the dry season just before the rainy season and there is a tension for the locals as they await the rainy season but, after all, as of yet it always comes.  Conversely here people all seemed happily going about their business.  It was however ever present on our minds.  We could not help but ask people we encountered  their take on the water issues.  Shockingly most everyday folks seemed to be very causal about it mentioning that there are NOW restrictions on watering lawns and such.  Maybe like most global warming issues it is just to big for people to wrap their heads around so instead they just … wait for the rainy season.

 

 

WE INTERRUPT THIS SABBATICAL WITH A BRIEF TRIP TO NJ

Heading back to the states for our US tour we took a pit stop in New Jersey.  Just to check-in, make sure our affairs were straight, and for our daughters 3rd Birthday Party.  No, she did not turn 3 but, it was her 3rd party this year for her 4th Birthday.  What a life!  Our last-minute attempt to persuade her to Spain before returning home was to know avail – she wanted Jersey.  And with business class seats on the way back from Europe she had nothing to complain about.  Up for 20 hours (because of the time difference) minus a 15-minute cat nap she remained a trooper.  Home in bed at 7:30 PM and slept till 7:00 AM, back on the new time zone, that is what I call a professional traveler.

Touching down Newark, stuck in traffic on the turnpike with a view of the oil refineries with smells to match, my thoughts could not help but meander to more serene sites from our travels and from the mouth of the babe an enthusiastic proclamation, “I love New Jersey”.  In theory yes, it was great for her to see her friends and her family and share in birthday crafts and ice cream but, in talking to her she is not ready, and neither are we, to end our travels.  So off we head to head to California after only a one-week stopover on the east coast.  The next local only has a 3 hour time difference.

Per a request prior to our flight we googled cockpit and learned about how pilots steer planes.  Prior to take off we literally ran into the pilot coming out of the loo.  Upon a brief intro the next thing I know our gal was sitting in his seat taking in the sites.  Exciting for her and me both!  Talk about creating her destiny, this girl has it down!

 

Back to the Gravel Pile

Well, we completed our loop through Europe, all 6,000+ Kilometers or approximately 3728 miles. Returning to familiar and comfortable Malmo, Sweden. When the city was founded in 1275 by Denmark its original name was Malmhaug, meaning “Gravel pile”. Makes it sound so romantic but now it is nicknamed “the city of parks”.  This conclusion was bittersweet, marking the end of our throw caution to the wind, footloose and fancy free part of our travels even so, the timing was perfect. Our return marked a not quite end to the European portion of our travels as we are staying for several weeks but the comfort of kicking back, chilling out, and not lugging our luggage every few days. Why yes Americans, other countries hotels do not all have elevators nor do they have central air. For that matter not all apartments have central air either.

We returned to Malmo just in time for a cool Swedish late summer but what we received something that no one anticipated.  A Swedish heat wave caused even the Swedish weather agency SMHI to issue its first ever warning for high temperatures with the many areas set to bask in plus 30C (86F) heat. Mild by US and even NJ standards but the facilities are not prepared. There are no shopping malls blasting AC to escape to because it is usually unnecessary (and a waste of resources) and people do not have ceiling fans and, for that matter, stores do not sell stand alone fans or “flickers” as they call them. Those that did sold out of them pronto. Once we succumbed to that hoax of the daily predictions of promised 74 degree weather were not righting themselves our hunt for a fan only produced a small 12 inch box one that also converts to a heater for winter. Open the window you say? Well the apartment is not quite equipped with large freed windows to open, also we are on a small city street that does not get a cross wind,. I am not spoiled growing up with no air in a row home but here the sun sets at 9ish and rises at 5ish how can we trick ourselves and more importantly a 3, turning 4 on August 6th girl to stay sleeping? Global warming has foiled us again first the south of France scorcher and now this. I digress… we survived.

 

A HUGE highlight, one that Ilaria has been anticipating since our departure from Sweden, was an opportunity to make Swedish Prinsesstårta, in English – Princess cake, a traditional Swedish cake that is sponge cake with a thin layer of jelly, lots of fresh whipped cream, and covered with a layer of marzipan.  Traditionally it is green and technically it is called Operatårta (Opera Cake) for pink marzipan.  We had the honor of accompanying Andreas, a baker and student of Kali and his daughter Elin to their family’s bakery to prepare a cake from scratch.  It was a great time with Ilaria jumping up and down most of the time out of pure excitement.

 

Our days here in Sweden this go about have been filled with yet more park time, a canal boat ride, and lots of biking with our rented bikes. The upside to the weather was that we only had very little rain so lots of outdoors and sunshine!   Taking advantage we had an excursion with Farbror Dan to Ystad.  A town steeped in history and medieval building and a beautiful beach but our main intent was to visit Ales Stenar.  Ale’s Stones, in english, is a megalithic monument in an oval outline of a ship 67 meters long and formed by 59 large boulders and carbon dated back to around 600AD.  It is referred to as the Swedish Stone Hedge.

 

llaria’s 4th birthday was August 6th.  The weekend previous we had a lovely Swedish gathering in the park to celebrate.  Our Swedish friends old and new gathered to toast and give her well wished and very thoughtful and lovely gifts.  We were blessed to have them with us for a celebration!  After hors d’oeuvre and drinks Ilaria sliced her fantastic birthday Princess Cake prepared by the baker Andreas.

 

On the day of her birthday, August 6th, our little family journeyed to Copenhagen to Tivoli Gardens, the very famous and special amusement park.  It opened on August 15,1843 making it the second oldest amusement park in the world!  The park is a beautiful place because it is not just rides but also gardens and fountains.  We enjoyed our time and special memories of the day.  All of her days she spends singing and dancing through life (both literally and figuratively) and has been such a joy.  In the days leading up to the culmination of the European leg of our travels we have not taken for granted ALL of the special times we have spent together and all of the laughter and happiness.  We chose this time in her life and our lives to make this journey and the memories we have are unimaginable.    

Summer Heat, Cold Shoulder

We headed to Northern Germany no, not passed Hamburg, the “other” Germany the northeastern portion that was once East Germany, a country that existed from only 1949 to 1990 but birthed and rose several generations.  Generations that lived through communism and the cold war.  Admittedly there were a few times during our travels to new regions that a deeper analysis a culture was required and a need to explore what has molded a society as a whole. (Thank you Wikipedia!)  There was a definitive edge to the people in this region once united as a country.  Not unhelpful or rude, although a majority of the over 30 were more than likely raised to dislike Americans, but shall we just say stoic.

Our path was uncharted territory for both of us and the choice was made to explore this region for that very reason in completing our loop back to Sweden. Overall, (minus Aix Les Bain, France) we have been sincerely fortunate with the places we have visited being enjoyable for us adults and as a family.  First to Warren, Germany on the shores of Lake Müritz, the largest lake in Germany.  After several weeks in the mountains the contrast of the lake was refreshing.  The small downtown square was charming with a pleasant pedestrian walkway and lake front properties.  Nice enough.   We all had weird and crazy nightmares, 3-year-old included.  The history of this town under the Nazi regime and then under the communist is mind numbing.  The energy from years past tends to stay in the location.  The carnage, the fear, once even a plague and the desperation lingers although very underlying.  We had an enjoyable time taking a boat ride on the lake, touring the town, and simply relaxing and chilling a bit from our previous several weeks.  This area and our next stop some people, the older ones, speak little to no English of course given the history why would they?  The tourists in Waren were Germany almost 100% .  The only non-germans we encountered in both places?  Authentic Italian restaurants of course!

Our next stop was Kühlungsborn, Germany  a seaside resort town on the coast, another shot in the dark.  One may think that with its proximity to Denmark there would be some Danish visitors.  Um, no, just Germans. It was a lovely town, again with a seedy history but the restoration beginning mid-90’s has been really nicely done.   The wide bike friendly promenade was excellent for cruising and the knee-deep, calm water great for wading and safe swimming for kiddo.  Beautiful waterfront and older restored buildings except for the one, very distinctly different, you will see in the following pictures which was a bit of an eyesore but an important reminder of all of the history and progress.  We, along with other tourists who were German, were taking pictures of the soon to be demolished building along with the beauty of the Baltic Sea.  A very clear physical reminder of where they had been in the very near past, enough to give anyone cold shivers.

Bavarian Charm and Hospitality

Most Americans thinking of Germany envision lederhosen and beer gardens.  Education – This is not Germany this is Bavaria, a state in the southwestern part of Germany.  The dialect, the traditionalism, the Weißwürste (white sausage), and religion all very distinct to this region.  Americans consider yourselves schooled, I certainly was.

Our entrance into Germany was a day trip journeying out of Lech, Austria to just minutes over the border Lindau on Lake Constance.   The intention of this sojourn was to allow Ilaria to experience the area where a relative way back in 11th century of Rick’s family tree originated.  That was until he “chose judiciously” to abscond to Italy after slicing the brother of the emperor’s face in a duel, thus bestowing upon him the nickname Spada in Faccia (Sword in Face).  Weaponry is in Rick’s blood!

Our next two days were spent in Rothenburg, Germany a town in Bavaria.  Many of the buildings within the walled city preserved their medieval history making it a link in the tourist trade as part of the Romantic Road. It was pristine and fairytale like thus making it mobbed by tourist.  There was an American Ambassadors of Music festival in the town so there many have been more Americans there during that time then Germans or other nationalities but, either way, as a country we certainly talk the loudest!  The buildings and the town were pristine – the true tourist stop on our travels.

Next stop – Bayreuth, Germany also in Bavaria.  Bayreuth why pray tell would we chose that city?  Once hometown of composer Richard Wagner and now a famous Opera House dedicated to his works or Hofgarten Eremitage (pictures to follow) a late-Baroque park once referred to as “one of the loveliest places in Germany”.  No, an invitation.  One of Rick’s past students from the 90’s Frank who had visited PAMA in 2012 and 2013 extended an invitation upon hearing about our plans to travel and invited us to come to his home and hometown.  Our gracious hosts made this stop very memorable.

We entered into a splendid home cooked lunch by Birgit, Frank’s wife, with scrumptious homemade desserts and homemade whipped cream.  Ilaria was thrill to be in the company of their children Leo, Henning and Charlotte.  The three of them were very gracious in entertaining a very enthusiastic 3 year old even though they were quite a bit older.  The girls were kindred spirits sharing in their love of ballet and dance.  Our families spent the day visiting sites in Bayreuth and seeing Franks family business.  The finale of the day was dinner at an authentic local bavarian restaurant.  The food was fantastic and the company even better.  All in all it was a day that we will all hold dear in our hearts.

We would like to congratulate the German soccer team and thank them from ruining our intentions of stopping in Berlin.  They trumped us. Imagine that?  Our intended arrival date was that of their return to Germany.  Millions chose to flock to greet them so we diverted our trip not only to another local but also around the capital city so as not to get snared in the traffic.   Onward and upward to the Eastern Block!

Partying for the Winners!
Partying for the Winners!

Breathe Baby Please, Relax and Breathe

8635 feet above see level with no gradual acclimatize as the cable car moved a fairly brisk clip.  As we headed up the cable car that day the little hand in mine went limp for a brief moment and her head nodded like someone dozing off.  Immediately I dropped to my knees to be sure she was conscious.  She laughed like a child just shy of her 4th birthday saying she “fell asleep”.  One cannot stop the gondola mid-mountain and anyway she assured that she was well.  Arriving on the summit things seemed for a few minutes to be copasetic.  Walking we immediately encountered a glacier and the ice was very exhilarating and unexpected in the eyes of a child given that when we arrived in Lech, Austria just the day before the temperature was in the low 70’s and sunny.  But that next day at the apex there was a transference and temperatures has plummeted to the lover 50’s, even more evident on the mountain.  Attempting to slow a high-energy child who loved to climb down once the mountain presented itself was nearly futile.  She took off like a bullet and then an instant later stopped; looking pale she requested a moment to rest.

Panic strikes a parent at the sight of a blood drained child who for moments that felt like hours was staring blankly and unresponsive.  We expedited our return to the cable car station in anticipation of requiring emergency oxygen, the key being that we, as parents, remain externally calm in the midst of a racing heart and speeding thoughts.  She bounced back, flushed cheeks and giggles even before we began our descent but this final downward trip thatwill remain memorable to us all.  Thankfully what she recalls is the ice on the crest and the helicopter carrying supplies right outside our window.

Lech has quintessential village charm.  It’s location in Western Austria slightly removed, high in the mountains, has helped preserve Lech’s appeal and allure. The hotels are built in traditional chalet style and a rushing river runs along the main street.  In the winter it is apparently very overrun with elite, upper crust visitors including royalty for the amazing snow and slopes but when we were there it was very calm and serine.  It is in an amazing spot between two stunning valleys with equally impressive scenery.  Another amazing stop for us but then again we planned it that way.

Later in the afternoon, after the event on the mountain, the rains came washing any chance to hike even the low-lying mountains once we all recuperated.  The saving grace was that our hotel was equipped for all weather and all ages.  There was a huge indoor heated pool AND a separate kids pool with water features and soundproofing equipped for diving and splashing.  There was an indoor playroom with puzzles, crafts, games, playhouses, puppets, blocks, Legos, trucks, dolls, and any other kids toys one could request.  Our little one was stoked.  Even better?  They had a certified childcare provider in-house and a spa and fitness room for the adults.  We have spent 24-7 together for a many weeks now and amazingly have had a fantastic time.   The experience with nature and the great outdoors for the majority of the time must be credited for our lack of need for space.  We already have been experiencing lots of breathing room in more ways then one but, it flowed naturally and pleasantly that adults got strictly adult alone time during the day and kid got kid playtime.  Ah, so what is wrong with a few days of rain?  And rain it did even as we drove onward to our next destination.

When the rains come
When the rains come

Agitation Celebration

Heading into Innsbruck, Austria the thing we all looked forward to the most?  Clean clothes.  Packing for our trip had been minimal and being that my super power is my keen sense of smell we were now desperately begging for a little clothing agitation.  The past several locations NO public laundromats, trust me we hunted, inquired, and hoped.  It had been several weeks since the south of France and our fully equipped apartment and intense hiking and sweating at Lake Garda has taking its toll.  To escalate our necessity for freshness was the misplaced “help” that reception in Riva del Garda imparted which was the location of a self-laundrymat  in town.  Thank you madam but apparently that closed 2 years ago, a fact that we were not made privy to until we had crammed our dirty and only somewhat soiled clothing into bags retiring them from the line-up until further notice.  Our associates at the laundry facility seemed taken aback by our celebration in fluffing and folding as well as the jubilation of a child as she made a wardrobe change immediately responding to the buzz of the dryer.

Heading into Mayrhofen, Austria another Alp location Rick was shocked of the changes since his last visit to the Valley many years ago.  Things had progressed at a rate more advanced then he imaged, although asking someone from our area in New Jersey they would be just as taken aback of the Route 1 megalithic “advancement” but in contrast you cannot compare the two. The lovely and quaint downtown remains intact.  It makes our adventure more organic to arrive into a town, select a location to stay, and then how long to visit.  In many destination locations in Europe you can arrive anytime night or day and there is a electronic board of hotels with a map method or a listing each with lights of available rooms.  Prior to seeking out the board we stopped into a few hotels that we viewed through prior research that may meet our needs.  Eh, not to impressed and/or the price did not accurately match the facility.

On our way to the hotel vacancy board a wee voiced pointed to a sign for Hotel Veronica, “What about this one?”.  Anxious to set our footing down we proceeded onto the board.  Through searching on the board and the attached computer system and reviewing the options the same voice comes through, “What about this one?  I want this one it looks beautiful.”  It was the same hotel again, a fact too intentional to ignore.  Upon laying our eyes upon it Hotel Veronica was perfect, a small boutique hotel with an apartment and most importantly to a child a small indoor pool in the lower level.

The cable car in this town, which we took, was the largest in Austria.  It is not the size of the Bahn, the angle in which it steeply ascends the mountain, or the speed but the elevation above the ground below.  The operator on the cable car looks begrudgingly as he enters his booth onboard but more relevant looks as if he was awake into the wee hours possibly watching one of the world cup semi-final matches.  The view from the summit made it all worth while one again as you can tell from the photos this time displaying a wide range of the Alps in the not to distant background.  Visiting a 500 year old mountain dairy was attempted but the pungent smell and the massive amount of flies from the mild winter kept us a bit at bay.  The descent was more nerve racking as the car was brimming with prepubescent, mostly male, riders chaperoned by a handful of uninterested counselors.

 

While in Mayrhofen we attended a beer garden with traditional music and enjoyed the atmosphere and pageantry.  Ila in her traditional gown, that has now replaced her crown as her daily garb, fit right in!

 

Italy or Austaly?

After taking Italian lessons for the past 8 months were my Italian lessons completely unnecessary for our travels in Italy?

Cafe on the way to Salva de Val Gardina
Cafe on the drive to Salva de Val Gardena, Italy

In conversations during our travels we have often expressed our openness to new areas and towns.  While in Chamonix an Italian lady who worked at the hotel suggested a mountain area in North Eastern Italy, Salva del Val Gardena.  She spoke of a beautiful Shangri-La valley in the midst of the Dolomites, her favorite part of Italy. Reaching the valley one cold, raining afternoon hungry and without a hotel chosen we were perplexed by her claims.  Daniela had claimed she loved it more then Chamonix and it was a hidden gem.  During those original moments we questioned her sanity as well as our own for listening to a total stranger.  Rather then simply drive on we grabbed lunch, talked and decided to just stay for one night rather then trek onward to another unknown location.

After finding a very special hotel and once the clouds parted merely a few hours later, we were left with amazing views of the valley under the mountains.  Directed to a nature reserve in a remote corner of the town we found beauty and serenity.  This corner of the world although a vacation destination was not so well known or invaded with tourists.  The perplexing part is that it was not invaded with Italians per say.  The feeling as well as language for that matter, was that of Austria.  In stores you would be greeted in German and then counted your change in Italian.  The signs and menus reflected duality in both languages.  On our second day we were gifted the opportunity to view a town celebration started at the Catholic Church, see picture – purely Austrian garb and music.  After seeing the ceremony our daughter insisted on purchasing a dress that matched those that were worn.  As she calls it her, “Italy” dress.

 

There is a deep seeded history of this region and their connection to Tyrol, southern Austria, from which it was stripped away even as recent as WW I an incident that was disputed up until as recent as the 1990’s.  The two Italian provinces of Trento (Trentino) and Bolzano (South Tyrol) are an autonomous Italian province, part of Italy but under their own rule, mystery solved.  There are great debates about the eventual return to Austria.  But for now from the view of an outsider the region contains the best of both countries – natural beauty, great pasta and apple strudel.