Category: World Travel

Been island hopping: Key West, P.E.I., Key Largo… Ærø

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Martial Arts, Plane Travel, Travel, World Travel

Milan, Copenhagen, Malmo Sweden, Boulder Co, Sarasota FL, Boulder Co, Miami Beach FL, NYC, Nosara CR, Key Largo, Key West, Boulder Co, Halifax NS, Prince Edward Island, LA, Sedona AZ, NYC, Nosara CR, Miami Beach, Key West, Key Largo, Miami Beach, Malmo SE. That about catches us up from my last blog until now for those curious. It has only been about 2 years! Those who were asking for more have since given up asking. So, in typical Scorpio fashion on my own terms and without further adieu…

Since I last communicated the world has been changing so rapidly and it continues to be tumultuous and overwhelming for many, many reasons. We did not even go to Europe last year because of all the terrorist activity, instead we went quietly and safely to Nova Scotia and P.E.I. in Canada and they were lovely and remote. This year we headed for solitude again and in addition to the worldly problems are also more immediately escaping predators in our own backyard. There have been several black bears sightings in our neighborhood.  Literally, a black bear in the preserved land out our back door as well as a black bear in a swimming pool less than 1/4 of a mile away.  With bear sighting in the daylight it puts a damper on playing outside our home as well as the constantly looming infectious deer ticks and their daily menacing behavior ominous for avid outdoors people or people who just want to walk out of their house.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE SWIMMING BEAR

On this years excursion first we took solace in our all familiar port of Malmo, the 3rd largest city in Sweden which lies across the bridge from Copenhagen.  Even after being away for 2 years it still feels like a second home we can navigate easily and all the people even speak English. Not just enough words to communicate but fluent English.  As a worldly world traveler I am not arrogant expecting to have others speak our language.  I know enough to get by in French, Spanish, and Italian and Rick’s Italian and German are bellissimo.  Once I tried to learn Swedish by audio tapes, I tried really I did but, my mouth betrayed me.  I could not get the sounds to come out correctly no matter how hard I tried.  So as he has been doing since 1989 Rick lead a Martial Arts seminar for his student Dan Johansson’s group MMA Alliance,  The students there loved the lessons and Rick looks forward to reconnecting with the group.

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After a weeklong visit we hopped on.  I may have mentioned previously that I love water.  Given a choice, Rick is more a mountain person and I the sea and salt water.  Maybe you are picturing some palm trees and sand as we are here in the islands again, this time not in the Caribbean but in Scandinavia. We went remote, super remote and quiet – Ærø, Denmark. Denmark is made up of 3 large landmasses and 2 of which are islands and then 404 more islands! The island we chose is part of the South Funen Archipelago in the south of Denmark in the Baltic Sea only accessible by ferry. And oh, you better make a reservation for the ferry because when we rolled up in our car rental to the dock and strolled leisurely into the Tourist office to inquire about the ferry departure the nice woman looked panicked. We did not come prepared with a reservation and the ferries fill up between cars and trucks heading over to the island. With her assistance we get a spot for the next departure but upon arriving we did not get a reservation for our return at the time we had hopped for.

View from the Ferry
View from the ferry

Being a green freak, I personally loved the idea of visiting this small island because it is near completely energy independent and up to a few years ago held the title for the world’s largest solar power plant. Ærø is only 22 miles by 6 miles but it’s 7,000 residents are very connected to nature and to the sustainability cause. Come on world, if a place that gets only approximately 50 hours of sunlight in December can do it what about the rest of us?

Borrowed photo of the solar panels
Borrowed photo of the solar farm

Speaking of sunlight, thankfully, Ilaria is a great sleeper at night because being so close to the Arctic Circle in the summer the sun rises at approx 4:30 a.m. and sets at approx 10:00 p.m.!  We do engineer the curtains and rig extra darkening to make sure that deep sleep happens.  We enjoy going for morning hikes but not too early!

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Escaping from reality, it is a fairy tale island; truly, in the old town most of the houses are one story tall and the oldest (still occupied) dates back to 1645. The streets are lined with hollyhocks and roses. In the main town strolling through the streets I took a photo of a particular door we found intriguing and it turns out it is not only the oldest on the island but, the oldest door in Denmark! Ærø is 22 miles by 6 miles, with 7,000 residents. The kind of island where people sell strawberries, honey, jam, and potatoes in front of their houses on the honor system, that kind of sweetness.  The nature walks were dreamy and surreal.

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Given the quaint features of this stay (and if you know us well) you will be shocked to see where we are going next. It may be the antithesis! STAY TUNED

Here we are living and still living wherever we are.

Reacquainting with Mr. Tucci

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Martial Arts, Travel, World Travel

The Tyrolean Alp surrounding a restaurant at a secluded mountain pass on a path to a remote Austrian village. Arriving – a sigh upon reaching a distant location and fading into obscurity. Until a James Bond moment and a subtle murmur in English with a strong German accent, “But Mr. Tucci last year was not your first year in Lech though was it? You were here before.” Recognized…

After contemplating the meaning of life and my life over a few Irish Coffees the night before, there was a need for something stronger – a solo hike up a mountain to sort it out. Carrying a metal hiking stick, originally with the intention of having a “weapon” if necessary, only to discover that truly, as in martial arts, the training is not for the purpose of fending off a predator but for self-preservation. More often then not, we are preparing not for the external enemy but for our own self-growth and self-knowledge, the internal conflict that can at times be more vicious.

Preparing for the somewhat challenging hike alone, initially the voices in the head go back and forth, round and round, attempting to solve the problems of the world and my world on a rational level. Next Type A gazes above to see the zenith and pushes to gain ground and heart rate. Starting to think about my life in phases and flashing moments and then I stopped, sat down and in a rare moment wept.   I thought about the many challenging times in my life and those people that surrounded me. Next, thoughts about how presently my mind was swarming with debates and manifestos though, in reality, all is truly well. There is no crisis.  Health, joy, and abundance abound but the numerous internal debates were not allowing enough room for gratitude and happiness with what is.  As I returned to my hike the path got significantly more challenging forcing moment-to-moment focus and presence to take hold.

Mountain traffic jam
Monk & Samurai carvings while hiking very fitting
View mid-hike
Alpine mountain flowers

I believe that there is a subtle magnetism in Nature, which, if we unconsciously yield to it, will direct us aright. ~Henry David Thoreau

Upon my decent, I came upon a trio pausing to allow my careful steps. Stopping a moment for banter about the weather and the trail as I depart a synchronicity, as the woman looking me directly in the eyes and imparts, “Take your time. No rush”.

We had many great out of doors time as a family spending time each day hiking and walking.   The purity of a child’s mind unfettered by thoughts and what we are indoctrinated as “reason” is a lesson in itself. Daily the important rituals revolve around mountain flowers, insects, conversions about fairies, and pursuing butterflies. Pursing butterflies that is with the intention of having one land and become compadres. Each day a daily moving meditation practice of learning to be still and patient then one day concentration and determination paid off. Not one new connection but THREE landed and were carried by my daughter. Pure love and faith prevailed.

Top of the Rufikopf
Geological hike discovery
Family hike selfie
Always look on the bright side of life
Butterfly friends

The weeks we extended and stayed in Lech, Austria and returned after a hiatus to the Dolomites in Italy have been like therapy for us as individuals as well as Rick and I as a couple. The arrangement at our hotel allows for much needed, uninterrupted adult time with complimentary childcare. Moments to relax, laugh, and just talk about nothings and everything in the daylight and setting sun. It did not take therapy but moments of focused attention and intention.  Just like starting over and all it took was space, nature, presence, and Irish coffee.

Relaxing!
Her new Austrian dress!
Hotel barn

As for Rick’s notoriety as mentioned at the beginning of the blog, the manager of the hotel where we stayed remembered Rick from many,many years ago at a different hotel in town. As it turns out I was not the only one to get reacquainted with him!

The Highs and Lows of Travels

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, World Travel

Where do you source? The Oceans or the Mountains? For me, I’ll follow the sun.

The day prior to flying into Milan from Copenhagen there was still debate as to where our travels would take us. Our decision became solely based on following the sunshine. Most of Europe in the mountains was getting drenched from Milan into Austria and Germany, torrential downpours not just a light sprinkling. The Mediterranean, Italian Rivera remained mostly sunny, at a cost.

Church San Giacomo in Santa Margherita Ligure
View of Santa Margherita Ligure
Always gelato time in Italy!
Lunch in Portofino
Hear the squeal!

As we were reminded of this year sea level and sunshine can be lovely but loud and busy. Most people who know Italians can tell you that south of Milan they love a bit of chaos, loud scooters & voices, and drama. Our heritage growing up with Sunday spaghetti dinners and lots of hand gesture grants us permission and authority to judge. We witnessed an animated (some might say passionate) 10-minute conversation between two waitresses about where to sit 3 German tourists because of the bright setting sun and reserved tables. Surely, this was not the first time this predicament presented itself but it warranted lots of back and forth dialogue and a bit of furry. This behavior is known to be accepted, part of the charm. Another thing that is accepted is tourist areas the Coperto is added to the bill, a per person fee. It is simply a different way of pricing menu items instead of including the management fees in the pricing of the individual dishes.  Sometimes up to 5 Euros even for lunch so that 2 bowls of spaghetti Bolognese in Portofino even before the summer crowed can rack up the $$$. Well, at least there are no complaints about the food or the view.

Three evenings and we were prepared and longing for calm of the mountains, traveling within a few hours from sea-level to just below the highest point in Europe Mont Blanc-Chamonix France. Although the French have been know for their own cultural attitudes in big cities like Paris, the Laissez-faire – let it go attitude is more apparent elsewhere. Although lots of worker migrate from other locals to have the opportunity to experience these amazing mountains on their free days. Even in a tourist mecca you can always be alone in the mountains surrounded by natural beauty.    Hiking and nature is calming and loved by all in our wide age range and the train to the base of a glacier on the other side of Mont Blanc from our last visit was breathtaking. The pinnacle was in a cloud literally, we stepped of the train in the heavens so our stay was brief before descent. No complains from our trio for the weather was forecast for rain most of our days in Chamonix but instead of following the sun it followed us!

Up in the Clouds
Enjoying the view
View from “Le Tour” hike
Chalet in Chamonix
View of Chamonix from above
Riding the Bahn

Laid Up, Lay Over

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Martial Arts, Plane Travel, Travel, World Travel

Always thrilled to be traveling, the complaints from frequent travels always seemed trite. Minus some minor hitches it has been smooth sailing for the past several years cruising the globe. Word to the wise… travel is one of the major areas affected by Mercury in retrograde.

Everyone ready to go!
Everyone ready to go!

In the United Airlines lounge prior to departure there was a rumbling, major rumbling, not thunder, a little closer to home. Maybe just a fluke or jittery nerves? Settling into our seats for our overnight flight through Brussels to Copenhagen for our travel to Malmo, Sweden there was some uneasiness. After managing a glass of red wine and our meals, that came after almost an hour and a half in the air, operation get a 4 year old to sleep on the plane was in full effect. Armrests up, mom was the pillow and dad was the leg rest – we were locked in. Dad dozing, child snoring, mom doubled over. Could it be really another case of cold seafood voodoo? Shrimp gazpacho sample from Whole Foods earlier or just cold stale plane air?

Past roommates can attest that when I retch it is not pretty nor is it quiet and there is a prolog of a cough that notoriously precedes the events, yes, events. There is never just one wave, then keep on rolling. Not that anyone is fond of expelling, but in a bathroom smaller then an automobile trunk with a line 4 deep?   Muffling the projectile like wrenching so that the flight attendant is not notified of the Ebola/Swine Flu/something not yet documented taking place. Must endure, cannot be quarantined in Brussels….

Come on 9lbs 2oz baby natural delivery, Muay Thai test getting the holy hell kicked out of you by two grown men voluntarily, pull it together. Immigration is no joke, let alone in a line following a flight that just landed from Africa and only 8, yes 8 customs’ officials to scan the abundant crowds for disease, drugs, and criminals myself being the former. Nauseously proceeding through the line supported constantly by my hugging partner, we looked like newly weds clinging to each other. Not to mention born with a spicy sense for odor and surrounded by unshowered weary travelers plus my own stench. It was a test of will. Can’t go on, must go on but for how long?

Concluding the confrontation with the officials there was only a brief, approximately 1 mile, saunter to the Air Brussels lounge. The view and breakfast display was lovely in the peripherals speeding to the ladies room. The lady in the adjacent stall must have been late for her flight because normally women wash their hands and don’t run out of bathrooms, huh that’s odd. Entering in and out one time more and the eruption is over.

Stock Brussels lounge photo (no way I would think for a picture)
Brussels Airport fun!
Catching the Train!

Onto Copenhagen, originally thrilled days earlier to contact Brussels Air and get our seats assigned row 4, all together. The stars were not having it.   The woman at the gate promptly ripped them up in our faces and relocated us to the rear of the plane, farthest rear, no recline on the seats. Our protests went unrequited and United Airlines status was met with a brick wall. The pilot felt obligated to notify us that the rear of the plane is the safest, thanks for that. The chance of an accident was very slim, the chance of a neck ache and stale air were guaranteed. Nothing to do but take our seats and laugh instead of crying about it.

The brief week in Sweden was packed with catching up with friends, taking in the sites, experiencing the city by bike and Rick’s martial arts seminar. Our home away from home and all of which were great. The seminar day one was bringing home the importance of the bread and butter basics of Kali, Silat, and empty hands. Day two was boxing and kickboxing strategies and drills, so much fun and interesting at the same time. Loved by all!

Secret garden found!
Reuniting with old playmates!
Reuniting with old playmates!
Rick’s seminar
Home away from home since 1989!

Next we depart Sweden for Italy with Mercury still in retrograde. Mama Mia here we go again!

A Year Gone By and What Do We Have to Show?

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, US Travel, World Travel

A Year Gone By and What Do We Have to Show?

The answer is almost nothing. No really, almost nothing. We spent almost this entire year on the road traveling and experiencing the world with no “stuff” to show for it. Experiences not items.

Returning to the launch site of our yearlong sabbatical, Costa Rica, brought me to a long pause both figuratively and literally in my blog, as I pondered all our tripping around the globe. There were many lessons and insights from our sincerely light-footed gallivanting. One major lesson was that we basically missed no things. At not one point did we stop and long for the “things” that we had left behind nor did we pick things up along the way besides food, necessities, and some clothing basics for our ever-growing daughter. All of our energies and resources were placed on, more often then not, outdoor, nature based activities.

Experiencing a Tico Birthday Party!
The Spoils!

Oddly enough, I don’t think that any of us got tired of wearing the few well-chosen quality outfits we toted. It was freeing in a way to have a very limited choices and not think twice about which few shirts to wear. Decisions were made on climate and comfort. In fact, there is a specific pair of grey cargo pants that you may have seen me wearing lots on our European trip that I wore today.

There was a time in my own life when I thought that I needed more and better and more. The more that one travels the more one realizes that what really maters are the experiences, whether near to home or around the globe.

This clear concept entered into our scope back in 2006. The beginning of the year I had read an article based on No Unnecessary Items. I read it, processed it, and took it to heart. Starting that year each time I went to purchase something, anything even the smallest thing I made a conscious decision on whether it was necessary. Most things were not. I managed to wear what I had in my closet more and then stacks that way. When our birthdays came in November we proposed the idea to each other that rather then purchase each other some nearly memorable items we would experience something together. Not just a trip but a long weekend getaway to a course on Peruvian Shamanism that transformed our world and perspectives in many ways and opened the doors to other spiritual endeavors. Priceless.

Interestingly enough when we returned from the bulk of our first year traveling, back into our home we began to purge more items rather then revel in them. Old clothing redistributed, books donated that may never be read again, and toys that no longer are needed reassigned. Less is better, living & experiencing is more.

IMG_5886

TIPS ON HOW TO LIVE LITE

  1. No unnecessary items (see above). Bored? Lonely? Filling your house with items will not fill this gap, only the space. Try a new class, museum, or daytrip. Expand your mind not your closets.
  2. Don’t buy crap. Really, the more low quality things you buy whether clothing, electronics, or home items the more you will have to replace them as they break, fall apart, or just disintegrate before your eyes.
  3. 1 in – 3 out rule. For every clothing item that you buy you must donate or give away three items in your closet. Wow, what a concept. This rule will filter out the items that you no longer wear and in no time even the scales on the clothing that you own. There will be a point in which you say, but I really like all of the things I have.
  4. Inform friends and family about gifts and make it clear and easy. My family is great on this. They know I love tea, wine, coffee, chocolate, handmade items, and restaurant/food gift certificates! All perfect, easy to find and use, and admittedly they do not hang around that long. In return if I am not sure of a useable, necessary gift for someone I buy him or her the same items listed above. Always a win and always well received.

Back to the Gravel Pile

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

Well, we completed our loop through Europe, all 6,000+ Kilometers or approximately 3728 miles. Returning to familiar and comfortable Malmo, Sweden. When the city was founded in 1275 by Denmark its original name was Malmhaug, meaning “Gravel pile”. Makes it sound so romantic but now it is nicknamed “the city of parks”.  This conclusion was bittersweet, marking the end of our throw caution to the wind, footloose and fancy free part of our travels even so, the timing was perfect. Our return marked a not quite end to the European portion of our travels as we are staying for several weeks but the comfort of kicking back, chilling out, and not lugging our luggage every few days. Why yes Americans, other countries hotels do not all have elevators nor do they have central air. For that matter not all apartments have central air either.

Our Loop
0 KM when we started

We returned to Malmo just in time for a cool Swedish late summer but what we received something that no one anticipated.  A Swedish heat wave caused even the Swedish weather agency SMHI to issue its first ever warning for high temperatures with the many areas set to bask in plus 30C (86F) heat. Mild by US and even NJ standards but the facilities are not prepared. There are no shopping malls blasting AC to escape to because it is usually unnecessary (and a waste of resources) and people do not have ceiling fans and, for that matter, stores do not sell stand alone fans or “flickers” as they call them. Those that did sold out of them pronto. Once we succumbed to that hoax of the daily predictions of promised 74 degree weather were not righting themselves our hunt for a fan only produced a small 12 inch box one that also converts to a heater for winter. Open the window you say? Well the apartment is not quite equipped with large freed windows to open, also we are on a small city street that does not get a cross wind,. I am not spoiled growing up with no air in a row home but here the sun sets at 9ish and rises at 5ish how can we trick ourselves and more importantly a 3, turning 4 on August 6th girl to stay sleeping? Global warming has foiled us again first the south of France scorcher and now this. I digress… we survived.

Wading pool cool down
Beach Fun
Bike Riding

 

A HUGE highlight, one that Ilaria has been anticipating since our departure from Sweden, was an opportunity to make Swedish Prinsesstårta, in English – Princess cake, a traditional Swedish cake that is sponge cake with a thin layer of jelly, lots of fresh whipped cream, and covered with a layer of marzipan.  Traditionally it is green and technically it is called Operatårta (Opera Cake) for pink marzipan.  We had the honor of accompanying Andreas, a baker and student of Kali and his daughter Elin to their family’s bakery to prepare a cake from scratch.  It was a great time with Ilaria jumping up and down most of the time out of pure excitement.

 

Our days here in Sweden this go about have been filled with yet more park time, a canal boat ride, and lots of biking with our rented bikes. The upside to the weather was that we only had very little rain so lots of outdoors and sunshine!   Taking advantage we had an excursion with Farbror Dan to Ystad.  A town steeped in history and medieval building and a beautiful beach but our main intent was to visit Ales Stenar.  Ale’s Stones, in english, is a megalithic monument in an oval outline of a ship 67 meters long and formed by 59 large boulders and carbon dated back to around 600AD.  It is referred to as the Swedish Stone Hedge.

 

llaria’s 4th birthday was August 6th.  The weekend previous we had a lovely Swedish gathering in the park to celebrate.  Our Swedish friends old and new gathered to toast and give her well wished and very thoughtful and lovely gifts.  We were blessed to have them with us for a celebration!  After hors d’oeuvre and drinks Ilaria sliced her fantastic birthday Princess Cake prepared by the baker Andreas.

 

On the day of her birthday, August 6th, our little family journeyed to Copenhagen to Tivoli Gardens, the very famous and special amusement park.  It opened on August 15,1843 making it the second oldest amusement park in the world!  The park is a beautiful place because it is not just rides but also gardens and fountains.  We enjoyed our time and special memories of the day.  All of her days she spends singing and dancing through life (both literally and figuratively) and has been such a joy.  In the days leading up to the culmination of the European leg of our travels we have not taken for granted ALL of the special times we have spent together and all of the laughter and happiness.  We chose this time in her life and our lives to make this journey and the memories we have are unimaginable.    

Summer Heat, Cold Shoulder

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

We headed to Northern Germany no, not passed Hamburg, the “other” Germany the northeastern portion that was once East Germany, a country that existed from only 1949 to 1990 but birthed and rose several generations.  Generations that lived through communism and the cold war.  Admittedly there were a few times during our travels to new regions that a deeper analysis a culture was required and a need to explore what has molded a society as a whole. (Thank you Wikipedia!)  There was a definitive edge to the people in this region once united as a country.  Not unhelpful or rude, although a majority of the over 30 were more than likely raised to dislike Americans, but shall we just say stoic.

Our path was uncharted territory for both of us and the choice was made to explore this region for that very reason in completing our loop back to Sweden. Overall, (minus Aix Les Bain, France) we have been sincerely fortunate with the places we have visited being enjoyable for us adults and as a family.  First to Warren, Germany on the shores of Lake Müritz, the largest lake in Germany.  After several weeks in the mountains the contrast of the lake was refreshing.  The small downtown square was charming with a pleasant pedestrian walkway and lake front properties.  Nice enough.   We all had weird and crazy nightmares, 3-year-old included.  The history of this town under the Nazi regime and then under the communist is mind numbing.  The energy from years past tends to stay in the location.  The carnage, the fear, once even a plague and the desperation lingers although very underlying.  We had an enjoyable time taking a boat ride on the lake, touring the town, and simply relaxing and chilling a bit from our previous several weeks.  This area and our next stop some people, the older ones, speak little to no English of course given the history why would they?  The tourists in Waren were Germany almost 100% .  The only non-germans we encountered in both places?  Authentic Italian restaurants of course!

Waren harbor
Waren hotel restored with original beams
Waren main square
Waren lakeside park
Lake boat ride

Our next stop was Kühlungsborn, Germany  a seaside resort town on the coast, another shot in the dark.  One may think that with its proximity to Denmark there would be some Danish visitors.  Um, no, just Germans. It was a lovely town, again with a seedy history but the restoration beginning mid-90’s has been really nicely done.   The wide bike friendly promenade was excellent for cruising and the knee-deep, calm water great for wading and safe swimming for kiddo.  Beautiful waterfront and older restored buildings except for the one, very distinctly different, you will see in the following pictures which was a bit of an eyesore but an important reminder of all of the history and progress.  We, along with other tourists who were German, were taking pictures of the soon to be demolished building along with the beauty of the Baltic Sea.  A very clear physical reminder of where they had been in the very near past, enough to give anyone cold shivers.

The Old East Germany
Main street
Town park with bonus – a cafe
Typical beach seat from the area
Biking through town
The Baltic seaside

Bavarian Charm and Hospitality

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

Most Americans thinking of Germany envision lederhosen and beer gardens.  Education – This is not Germany this is Bavaria, a state in the southwestern part of Germany.  The dialect, the traditionalism, the Weißwürste (white sausage), and religion all very distinct to this region.  Americans consider yourselves schooled, I certainly was.

Our entrance into Germany was a day trip journeying out of Lech, Austria to just minutes over the border Lindau on Lake Constance.   The intention of this sojourn was to allow Ilaria to experience the area where a relative way back in 11th century of Rick’s family tree originated.  That was until he “chose judiciously” to abscond to Italy after slicing the brother of the emperor’s face in a duel, thus bestowing upon him the nickname Spada in Faccia (Sword in Face).  Weaponry is in Rick’s blood!

Landau
By Lake Constance
Landau Fountain
Lake Constance
Landau Old Government Building

Our next two days were spent in Rothenburg, Germany a town in Bavaria.  Many of the buildings within the walled city preserved their medieval history making it a link in the tourist trade as part of the Romantic Road. It was pristine and fairytale like thus making it mobbed by tourist.  There was an American Ambassadors of Music festival in the town so there many have been more Americans there during that time then Germans or other nationalities but, either way, as a country we certainly talk the loudest!  The buildings and the town were pristine – the true tourist stop on our travels.

Rothenburg view from the main tower
Rothenburg fountain
Preparing for Schneeballen, egg dough fried
American show about to begin
Pre-dinner smooch

Next stop – Bayreuth, Germany also in Bavaria.  Bayreuth why pray tell would we chose that city?  Once hometown of composer Richard Wagner and now a famous Opera House dedicated to his works or Hofgarten Eremitage (pictures to follow) a late-Baroque park once referred to as “one of the loveliest places in Germany”.  No, an invitation.  One of Rick’s past students from the 90’s Frank who had visited PAMA in 2012 and 2013 extended an invitation upon hearing about our plans to travel and invited us to come to his home and hometown.  Our gracious hosts made this stop very memorable.

We entered into a splendid home cooked lunch by Birgit, Frank’s wife, with scrumptious homemade desserts and homemade whipped cream.  Ilaria was thrill to be in the company of their children Leo, Henning and Charlotte.  The three of them were very gracious in entertaining a very enthusiastic 3 year old even though they were quite a bit older.  The girls were kindred spirits sharing in their love of ballet and dance.  Our families spent the day visiting sites in Bayreuth and seeing Franks family business.  The finale of the day was dinner at an authentic local bavarian restaurant.  The food was fantastic and the company even better.  All in all it was a day that we will all hold dear in our hearts.

Fantastic Bavarian Restaurant
Rick and Frank a few years ago and now
Hofgarten Eremitage fountain
The Crew on Tour
New BFFs
Hofgarten Eremitage – Temple of the Sun

We would like to congratulate the German soccer team and thank them from ruining our intentions of stopping in Berlin.  They trumped us. Imagine that?  Our intended arrival date was that of their return to Germany.  Millions chose to flock to greet them so we diverted our trip not only to another local but also around the capital city so as not to get snared in the traffic.   Onward and upward to the Eastern Block!

Partying for the Winners!
Partying for the Winners!

Breathe Baby Please, Relax and Breathe

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel

8635 feet above see level with no gradual acclimatize as the cable car moved a fairly brisk clip.  As we headed up the cable car that day the little hand in mine went limp for a brief moment and her head nodded like someone dozing off.  Immediately I dropped to my knees to be sure she was conscious.  She laughed like a child just shy of her 4th birthday saying she “fell asleep”.  One cannot stop the gondola mid-mountain and anyway she assured that she was well.  Arriving on the summit things seemed for a few minutes to be copasetic.  Walking we immediately encountered a glacier and the ice was very exhilarating and unexpected in the eyes of a child given that when we arrived in Lech, Austria just the day before the temperature was in the low 70’s and sunny.  But that next day at the apex there was a transference and temperatures has plummeted to the lover 50’s, even more evident on the mountain.  Attempting to slow a high-energy child who loved to climb down once the mountain presented itself was nearly futile.  She took off like a bullet and then an instant later stopped; looking pale she requested a moment to rest.

View from the top
Glacier
Going down!

Panic strikes a parent at the sight of a blood drained child who for moments that felt like hours was staring blankly and unresponsive.  We expedited our return to the cable car station in anticipation of requiring emergency oxygen, the key being that we, as parents, remain externally calm in the midst of a racing heart and speeding thoughts.  She bounced back, flushed cheeks and giggles even before we began our descent but this final downward trip thatwill remain memorable to us all.  Thankfully what she recalls is the ice on the crest and the helicopter carrying supplies right outside our window.

Lech has quintessential village charm.  It’s location in Western Austria slightly removed, high in the mountains, has helped preserve Lech’s appeal and allure. The hotels are built in traditional chalet style and a rushing river runs along the main street.  In the winter it is apparently very overrun with elite, upper crust visitors including royalty for the amazing snow and slopes but when we were there it was very calm and serine.  It is in an amazing spot between two stunning valleys with equally impressive scenery.  Another amazing stop for us but then again we planned it that way.

Edelweiss!
Smaller cable car

Later in the afternoon, after the event on the mountain, the rains came washing any chance to hike even the low-lying mountains once we all recuperated.  The saving grace was that our hotel was equipped for all weather and all ages.  There was a huge indoor heated pool AND a separate kids pool with water features and soundproofing equipped for diving and splashing.  There was an indoor playroom with puzzles, crafts, games, playhouses, puppets, blocks, Legos, trucks, dolls, and any other kids toys one could request.  Our little one was stoked.  Even better?  They had a certified childcare provider in-house and a spa and fitness room for the adults.  We have spent 24-7 together for a many weeks now and amazingly have had a fantastic time.   The experience with nature and the great outdoors for the majority of the time must be credited for our lack of need for space.  We already have been experiencing lots of breathing room in more ways then one but, it flowed naturally and pleasantly that adults got strictly adult alone time during the day and kid got kid playtime.  Ah, so what is wrong with a few days of rain?  And rain it did even as we drove onward to our next destination.

When the rains come
When the rains come

Agitation Celebration

by Living Wherever We Are, posted in Embracing Uncertainty, Life Lessons, Travel, World Travel
Heading into Innsbruck, Austria the thing we all looked forward to the most?  Clean clothes.  Packing for our trip had been minimal and being that my super power is my keen sense of smell we were now desperately begging for a little clothing agitation.  The past several locations NO public laundromats, trust me we hunted, inquired, and hoped.  It had been several weeks since the south of France and our fully equipped apartment and intense hiking and sweating at Lake Garda has taking its toll.  To escalate our necessity for freshness was the misplaced “help” that reception in Riva del Garda imparted which was the location of a self-laundrymat  in town.  Thank you madam but apparently that closed 2 years ago, a fact that we were not made privy to until we had crammed our dirty and only somewhat soiled clothing into bags retiring them from the line-up until further notice.  Our associates at the laundry facility seemed taken aback by our celebration in fluffing and folding as well as the jubilation of a child as she made a wardrobe change immediately responding to the buzz of the dryer.
Photo from BubblePoint Website says it all!
Innsbruck riverside clean dress celebration
Innsbruck Old City

Heading into Mayrhofen, Austria another Alp location Rick was shocked of the changes since his last visit to the Valley many years ago.  Things had progressed at a rate more advanced then he imaged, although asking someone from our area in New Jersey they would be just as taken aback of the Route 1 megalithic “advancement” but in contrast you cannot compare the two. The lovely and quaint downtown remains intact.  It makes our adventure more organic to arrive into a town, select a location to stay, and then how long to visit.  In many destination locations in Europe you can arrive anytime night or day and there is a electronic board of hotels with a map method or a listing each with lights of available rooms.  Prior to seeking out the board we stopped into a few hotels that we viewed through prior research that may meet our needs.  Eh, not to impressed and/or the price did not accurately match the facility.

Lovely Austrian church

On our way to the hotel vacancy board a wee voiced pointed to a sign for Hotel Veronica, “What about this one?”.  Anxious to set our footing down we proceeded onto the board.  Through searching on the board and the attached computer system and reviewing the options the same voice comes through, “What about this one?  I want this one it looks beautiful.”  It was the same hotel again, a fact too intentional to ignore.  Upon laying our eyes upon it Hotel Veronica was perfect, a small boutique hotel with an apartment and most importantly to a child a small indoor pool in the lower level.

Hotel Veronica
Hotel Veronica

The cable car in this town, which we took, was the largest in Austria.  It is not the size of the Bahn, the angle in which it steeply ascends the mountain, or the speed but the elevation above the ground below.  The operator on the cable car looks begrudgingly as he enters his booth onboard but more relevant looks as if he was awake into the wee hours possibly watching one of the world cup semi-final matches.  The view from the summit made it all worth while one again as you can tell from the photos this time displaying a wide range of the Alps in the not to distant background.  Visiting a 500 year old mountain dairy was attempted but the pungent smell and the massive amount of flies from the mild winter kept us a bit at bay.  The descent was more nerve racking as the car was brimming with prepubescent, mostly male, riders chaperoned by a handful of uninterested counselors.

Retired cable car
View from the top
Chaos on the Bahn
Mountain Food – shared plate bigger then your head!

 

While in Mayrhofen we attended a beer garden with traditional music and enjoyed the atmosphere and pageantry.  Ila in her traditional gown, that has now replaced her crown as her daily garb, fit right in!