Been island hopping: Key West, P.E.I., Key Largo… Ærø

Milan, Copenhagen, Malmo Sweden, Boulder Co, Sarasota FL, Boulder Co, Miami Beach FL, NYC, Nosara CR, Key Largo, Key West, Boulder Co, Halifax NS, Prince Edward Island, LA, Sedona AZ, NYC, Nosara CR, Miami Beach, Key West, Key Largo, Miami Beach, Malmo SE. That about catches us up from my last blog until now for those curious. It has only been about 2 years! Those who were asking for more have since given up asking. So, in typical Scorpio fashion on my own terms and without further adieu…

Since I last communicated the world has been changing so rapidly and it continues to be tumultuous and overwhelming for many, many reasons. We did not even go to Europe last year because of all the terrorist activity, instead we went quietly and safely to Nova Scotia and P.E.I. in Canada and they were lovely and remote. This year we headed for solitude again and in addition to the worldly problems are also more immediately escaping predators in our own backyard. There have been several black bears sightings in our neighborhood.  Literally, a black bear in the preserved land out our back door as well as a black bear in a swimming pool less than 1/4 of a mile away.  With bear sighting in the daylight it puts a damper on playing outside our home as well as the constantly looming infectious deer ticks and their daily menacing behavior ominous for avid outdoors people or people who just want to walk out of their house.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE SWIMMING BEAR

On this years excursion first we took solace in our all familiar port of Malmo, the 3rd largest city in Sweden which lies across the bridge from Copenhagen.  Even after being away for 2 years it still feels like a second home we can navigate easily and all the people even speak English. Not just enough words to communicate but fluent English.  As a worldly world traveler I am not arrogant expecting to have others speak our language.  I know enough to get by in French, Spanish, and Italian and Rick’s Italian and German are bellissimo.  Once I tried to learn Swedish by audio tapes, I tried really I did but, my mouth betrayed me.  I could not get the sounds to come out correctly no matter how hard I tried.  So as he has been doing since 1989 Rick lead a Martial Arts seminar for his student Dan Johansson’s group MMA Alliance,  The students there loved the lessons and Rick looks forward to reconnecting with the group.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

After a weeklong visit we hopped on.  I may have mentioned previously that I love water.  Given a choice, Rick is more a mountain person and I the sea and salt water.  Maybe you are picturing some palm trees and sand as we are here in the islands again, this time not in the Caribbean but in Scandinavia. We went remote, super remote and quiet – Ærø, Denmark. Denmark is made up of 3 large landmasses and 2 of which are islands and then 404 more islands! The island we chose is part of the South Funen Archipelago in the south of Denmark in the Baltic Sea only accessible by ferry. And oh, you better make a reservation for the ferry because when we rolled up in our car rental to the dock and strolled leisurely into the Tourist office to inquire about the ferry departure the nice woman looked panicked. We did not come prepared with a reservation and the ferries fill up between cars and trucks heading over to the island. With her assistance we get a spot for the next departure but upon arriving we did not get a reservation for our return at the time we had hopped for.

View from the Ferry
View from the ferry

Being a green freak, I personally loved the idea of visiting this small island because it is near completely energy independent and up to a few years ago held the title for the world’s largest solar power plant. Ærø is only 22 miles by 6 miles but it’s 7,000 residents are very connected to nature and to the sustainability cause. Come on world, if a place that gets only approximately 50 hours of sunlight in December can do it what about the rest of us?

Borrowed photo of the solar panels
Borrowed photo of the solar farm

Speaking of sunlight, thankfully, Ilaria is a great sleeper at night because being so close to the Arctic Circle in the summer the sun rises at approx 4:30 a.m. and sets at approx 10:00 p.m.!  We do engineer the curtains and rig extra darkening to make sure that deep sleep happens.  We enjoy going for morning hikes but not too early!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Escaping from reality, it is a fairy tale island; truly, in the old town most of the houses are one story tall and the oldest (still occupied) dates back to 1645. The streets are lined with hollyhocks and roses. In the main town strolling through the streets I took a photo of a particular door we found intriguing and it turns out it is not only the oldest on the island but, the oldest door in Denmark! Ærø is 22 miles by 6 miles, with 7,000 residents. The kind of island where people sell strawberries, honey, jam, and potatoes in front of their houses on the honor system, that kind of sweetness.  The nature walks were dreamy and surreal.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Given the quaint features of this stay (and if you know us well) you will be shocked to see where we are going next. It may be the antithesis! STAY TUNED

Here we are living and still living wherever we are.

Denmark – Think before you drink

What do you think would be the reaction in the US if someone went to a restaurant and were charged $3-$4 a glass for tap water?  Not from Fiji, a glacier, no bubbles just the sink.

We are seasoned travelers and diners as well as kind and considerate to servers and tip well per the country’s customs.  An issue that occurs internationally and nationally is our preference not to drink soda, juice, or milk.  Water is the beverage of choice and being Green do not order bottled water whether from a glass or plastic when there is no need in industrialized counties.  (Can you tell it is a pet peeve?)  We do not drink normal water to save $, thank goodness, because would you believe that in Denmark they CHARGE for tap water.  Not a buck or two, sometimes equaling to $3-$4!!!   We remember this from past visits but it is still stunning.  When we asked one waitress she stated, “I know it is old-fashioned and stupid.”  What is the recourse you say?  Order a glass or wine or beer?  But we still want water also after lots of walking!  In one instance we ordered aperitifs and then we still got hit!

After an enjoyable stay in Malmo we decided to head to Copenhagen for a few days to enjoy some sites.  Upon originally deciding to have a child our intention was to not slow down our very active travels at times, lots of walking and touring.  The child would have to keep up. Foresight could not predict that we would be the ones trying to keep up with the lassie even after over 8 miles of walking throughout a long day.  How did she do it you ask? She is 3 almost 4 and has not done the stroller thing for over a year so one must observe the experts, New Yorkers. On our last trip to NYC they were lined up at Central Park – scooters. In anticipation her younger model was upgraded to the 5-11 year olds’ model with intuitive tilt and lean steering.  At first it seemed a bit of a challenge to coordinate.  Yeah, no.  She is zipping and zooming around, left leg then right, one leg in the air Ballet style, no hands on her tippy toes, and squatting.  Like a youthful pup we have to run her now and again to tire her out and get her to trot at a leisurely pace!

Learning right away from these first few weeks, as we thought we would, some sites would not interest a wee one so it is an art to have fun AND experience culture. We spent one morning on a train trip to a town just outside of Copenhagen famous for it’s Viking Museum and inlet, Roskilde.  Enjoying the tradespeople outside making rope, a kiln, shields, and boats but at waterside deciding to forgo actually entering the museum!  Instead we jettisoned to another super cool playground just next to it and enjoyed the view of the water.  Back in Copenhagen the sights that interested all of us were the Danish National Museum (they have a children’s museum section) and the famous Tivoli Gardens.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

You can see from the photos that Ilaria was thrilled when she was chosen to be in a show at Tivoli.  She was not as stoic as she looks, hyper-focused is her modus operandi, after all the entire show was in Danish!  Seeing it time and time again now on occasions where one would expect visual jubilation she assess the situation and later recounts her enjoyment of what took place.  Some people have mentioned the disappointed of their personal experience seeing the famous “Lille Havfrue”, literally: “the Little Mermaid” a statue based on the Hans Christian Anderson story.  Rick and I had seen the sculpture prior but, believe you me, Ilaria thought it was fantastic exclaiming, “I loved, loved, loved it!” As the sea foam continues to form at the harbor, as in the legend, it lives on in the heart of children.

The Little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid

Next we are heading back to Malmo for more time as well as Rick’s Martial Arts seminar.